Not every stop on a Luangwa Valley traverse is about wildlife sightings. Luambe is the one where the pressure on that wildlife becomes impossible to ignore — buffalo pushed out of the park, and lions sheltering in the village next door.
Most safari itineraries take you to one park. This one takes you through four — from a border-crossing stopover and a dilapidated colonial-era castle, through the remote, rarely-visited stretches of North Luangwa and Luambe, to leopard, lion, and wild dog sightings on the riverbank in South Luangwa. Twelve nights, mobile camping, the honest version of the valley.