Cookson's wildebeest herd grazing in Luambe National Park, Zambia

Luambe: The Complicated One

This is the fifth post in our Luangwa Valley traverse series. Catch up on Post 1 and Post 4: North Luangwa if you’re just joining — Luambe follows directly after North Luangwa on the route south.

Arriving at Luambe

Two nights at Kamukonzo Campsite make for a quiet, sobering stretch of the trip. Luambe is one of the smallest, least-visited parks in the Luangwa Valley system. On paper, that sounds like a selling point: no crowds, no other vehicles, a park to yourself. On our visit, though, the quiet meant something different.

Hand-painted road signs to Mfuwe and "Road Broken" in Luambe National Park, Zambia
Hand-painted signs on the way through Luambe — Mfuwe one way, a broken road the other.

What We Actually Found

Luambe sits right on the edge of a hunting concession, and on our visit, that boundary felt very real.

On our visit to Luambe National Park, an active hunt was underway in the concession bordering the park. As a result, every buffalo we’d normally expect inside Luambe had been pushed out. Several lions had also moved into Chitungulu Village itself, seeking refuge from the pressure next door. Standing in a national park and watching its wildlife pushed to the margins is not something we expected to be writing about on a safari blog.

Map showing Chitungulu Village on the edge of Luambe National Park, Zambia
A map of Chitungulu Village, right on the edge of Luambe National Park.

This is one of the realities of a Luangwa Valley safari that doesn’t make it into most marketing. We think it’s worth knowing about. It’s also worth talking about honestly with guests who travel with us through here. After all, it’s easy for a safari company to only show the postcard version of a place. Instead, we’d rather guests understood what we actually saw.

Why We’re Telling You This

We’re not conservation scientists. So we’re not in a position to say exactly what’s driving the pressure we witnessed, or what the long-term outlook for Luambe’s wildlife looks like. What we can do, however, is describe what we saw honestly. Then we let guests make up their own minds about what it means to travel through a place like this.

Two nights here make for a quiet, sobering stretch of the trip. It’s also a reminder of how thin the line can be between a protected park and the pressures around it.

Next in this series: South Luangwa. Five nights riverfront at Croc Valley Camp deliver the best wildlife of the entire trip — leopard, lion, and wild dogs.

Cheers, Daniel

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